Across the Peninsula

The Welland Canal, with its series of eight locks, is the only route for large vessels to enter the Upper Lakes from Lake Ontario.

Filling in Lock 3; the observation lock

On this day in late November, we had a warm, calm day to make our transit; a respite from the windy weather on Lake Ontario and the gales to come on Lake Erie. Along with the several dozen transits of the Canal over the years, I have also cycled the bike path that follows the Welland while my ship has been berthed in Port Colborne or Port Weller.

Portion of the path between Locks 1 and 2

The Welland Canal Parkway is one portion of the Greater Niagara Circle Route: http://www.regional.niagara.on.ca/government/initiatives/gncr/ 

While the tourism board touts this as a two or three day excursion, it is a flat ride except for the Niagara Escarpment and a long, pleasant day ride. Each time I have cycled the route, it has been while my ship was in the shipyard at Port Weller. You can do the ride in either direction, but my preference is to do it in the clockwise direction.

The reasons for this choice are both practical and esthetic. First, the entire route is a dedicated bike path except for the portion between Port Weller and Niagara-on-the-Lake, which is partly paved shoulder and partly riding along the road. As with most of 'The Waterfront Trail' in Ontario, this part is a trail in name only. I prefer to do this section in the early morning at the beginning of the ride when there is less traffic. If you do the route in the counterclockwise direction, you will be cycling along this portion later in the day when there is heavy traffic flow leaving Niagara-on-the-Lake racing for the highway to get back to Toronto.

Second, the ride up the Niagara Escarpment along the Niagara Parkway is a more gradual climb than the ride following the Welland Canal. Also, from Port Weller, you have a good couple of hours to warm up before the climb in the clockwise direction whereas it hits you in the first twenty minutes going the opposite way.

Third, when you travel between Niagara-on-the-Lake and Niagara Falls, you are cycling towards the falls with the view in front of you rather than behind you. There are lots of places to stop and sightsee such as Fort George and the whirlpool and the falls. Personally, I feel more inclined to stop and appreciate my surroundings at the beginning of a ride than at the end when I just want to get home.

A few practical considerations about this ride. There are not alot of restrooms or water sources in certain sections of the route. Between Niagara-on-the-Lake and Niagara Falls, there is one spot in a park with restrooms and a water fountain. Between Niagara Falls and Fort Erie, there is a small cafe at a marina about two thirds of the way to Fort Erie called the Dockside Grille where you can get a snack or buy drinks. Between Fort Erie and Port Colborne, the path goes through a small community called Ridgeway that has some restaurants and cafe's. I usually have lunch here because it is a pleasant spot and about half way along the route from Port Weller.

Good places to eat on Ridge Road North

Between Port Colborne and Welland, the path follows a portion of the old Welland Canal that is no longer used by the ships. There is a rowing circuit in part of the old canal. At a certain point after the rowing circuit, you can follow a path on either side of the old canal through Welland. If you take the eastern path, it will take you through Welland and a park and then stop at a railway crossing. I don't know if trains use this crossing anymore, but many cyclists use it to cross the old canal back to the main path and carryon north towards Port Robinson, Thorold, St. Catherines and Port Weller.

At Lock 3, there are restrooms and a water fountain. Take the time to visit the displays about the history of the Canal and the amazing feat of lifting the massive vessels up the escarpment.